In an ancient city of stone and caves, what was old is new again. Entrepreneurs have returned home after stints in Rome and Milan and given new life to the city, which will be 2019’s European Capital of Culture. Thankfully, they’ve allowed the place to speak for itself — opening elegant hotels with vaulted cave rooms and restaurants that offer refined takes on local classics, like orecchiette with fennel sausage served with chewy semolina bread. The best way to appreciate the city’s labyrinthine layout is on foot. Wandering the Sasso Caveoso, visitors shouldn’t be surprised to find themselves standing on a ninth-century graveyard, across from an impeccable Baroque palazzo and above an 11th-century church-turned-family home, where 700-year-old frescoes still color the calcareous walls.