Salento lies at the southernmost tip of the long coastal peninsula of Puglia, at the confluence of the Adriatic and the Ionian seas. Hot and dry, it’s known for its olive groves, forest-clad plateaus and towns embellished with intricately carved stone façades. The region’s proximity to Greece and the Balkans has made it coveted territory since classical antiquity. The Mycenaean Greeks were followed by the Romans, then a long line of invaders: Lombards, Byzantines, Saracens, Normans, Swabians, Angevins, Turks and Venetians. They all left their mark, much of it at the table, and this makes shopping for food and dining in the towns and villages of Salento something of an adventure in time travel.