WINE: THE GAJA WAY OF THINKING by Andrew Jefford

Back in mid-June, on a typically warm and humid Langhe morning, I visited the key Gaja vineyards in Barolo and Barbaresco with Gaia Gaja – and Bris, her small, inquisitive lap dog.  Gaja vineyard practices have changed radically over the last decade, but Gaia’s insights also helped me understand the challenges presented by a change of generation – in this case, as two daughters (Gaia and her younger sister Rossana) and their younger brother Giovanni slowly take over from their dauntingly successful and innovative father.  Giovanni is working in New York at present, while Gaia describes herself as “the ministry of external affairs” and her sister as “the ministry of internal affairs”.

 

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1 Comment

  1. I was lucky enough to attend a masterclass with Gaia Gaja at Lucio’s restaurant in Paddington, Sydney.
    It was THE masterclass, she was amazing in her delivery & breadth of knowledge; but the lengths this family goes to produce their wines are staggering. Take this one small element for example, worms. The vineyard manager found the Italian worms we quite lazy, work for a few hours then a siesta. So they imported Californian worms that have 4 stomachs and aren’t prone to too much sleeping. One element across the thousands that face the winemaker.

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