There was lasagne rivalry in my family – between mamma and my zia Alba who lived next door. It was mostly to do with besciamella and partly to do with ham. The points being debated were: Should you include bechamel sauce in lasagna? Or would it detract from the meaty sugo? And what about thinly shaved prosciutto cotto – was there any place for ham in a lasagne (or as we called it at home “pasta al forno”)? These were the conversations I remember hearing as a child amongst family members and other triestini and polesani, whilst sharing coffee and crostoli or over a game of cards, in a typically Italian way where food dominates discussions.